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Goodie How? Kagutoki |
Hello, Good morning How are you? or What are you doing? Thank you |
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Kai Kai kai Logeia Samarai Moon |
Kulusia Hetei Dickson |
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From sophisticated, smart, ebony and kwila carvings and distinctive woven baskets, mats and beda bags (betel nut holders) to unique traditional bagi and mwali (shell money) the variety is endless.  Pic by Gail
Stiffe |
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This is a Province full of artisans who craft bowls, dolphins, drums, pigs, birds, figures, stools, walking sticks and turtle bowls - inlaid with mother-of-pearl or plain - the choice is yours. |
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Anthoropologists appreciate replicas of dance skirts, limepots, canoe prows, dance fans and betelnut chewing spatulas which are all readily available and a range of pottery from scattered villages and islands all decorated in traditional patterns and style unique to this area. |
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BagiRossell IslandMany men and women from Milne Bay wear necklaces made from reddish pink shells, the famous 'bagi' or shell money which formed an integral part of the Kula Trade Circle. Historically traded from island to island for bartered goods and nurturing of goodwill, the bagi has become wearable currency throughout Milne Bay. Bagi is only made in two villages on Rossell Island which is a small reef lined island at the extreme eastern end of Milne Bay Province. The shells used are the rare 'Chama Pacifica Imbricata' a relative of the oyster, which are found at depths of 3 to more than fifteen metres. The shells are white inside with a narrow rim of red which is the only part used. Pieces of this rim are broken off and ground flat by holding with a green stick and rubbing on a flat rock. A small hole is drilled in the center of each piece and they are threaded (28/cm) onto a stiff wire then ground until they are smooth (several days work). Once this stage is reached the beads are threaded onto a length of pandanus bush string and polished with coconut oil. The bagi was traditionally traded with Tagula Island for clay cooking pots, black stone (obsidian) axe blades and carved wooden bowls. Obsidian sources are found on the Suau mainland, Woodlark, Normanby and Fergusson Islands. For purchase or orders the following people can be contacted: Mr Saul David, P.O. SAMARAI ISLAND or Mr Pascal Rupert who lives at Velea Village on Kwanak Island, c/- Catholic Mission, Nimoa, P.O. TAGULA. |
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Alotau is the home of the Kaikuali Theatre Group. This group of young people perform traditional dance and contemporary theatre. They help the Red Cross with AIDS Awareness and other health issues by travelling around villages performing short skits. Kaikuali Theatre Group also perform for specific occcasions and will tailor their performances to suit the audiences.
The group has maintained its strong identity and enthusiasm over the years, a remarkable achievement in the face of continuing economic challenges and social change in Papua New Guinea. They are steadily expanding their repertoire of traditional stories, and working in collaboration with village elders and hereditary custodians of oral culture to devise new presentations.
Contact: Ben Napoleon at the HIV Aids Secretariat: 6410433
| The people of Milne Bay are renowned for their friendliness. Milne Bay
is a Province of many dispersed islands, 48 ethnic groups speaking 7
lingua franca: Dobu, Kilivila, Tubetube, Panaeti, Wedau, Suau, Ialeba,
however the system of property and inheritance is mainly a matrilineal
one.
While Milne Bay is largely under-developed, her warm and friendly people have had contact with the outside world since the 17th Century. Early missionary contact has heavily influenced local culture so that most people can speak some English. This blending of traditional and Christian values enables one to learn about the village lifestyles. Within the province there are many different traditions as many of the inhabitants have had little contact with other groups. For example the mainland of Milne Bay is divided down the middle by the Owen Stanley mountain range so the people from the North have different traditions from those in the south and each of the island groups has different traditions. Cameron Secondary School has in its grounds a cultural village with full-size models of houses from different regions of Milne Bay. Here you can see yam houses, village houses and decorations particular to each region. During the school's annual Cultural Show families of students who come from outer Alotau, come and live in the houses. They decorate the houses, choreograph, and dress the students in traditional attire. |
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RabarabaThe Rabaraba people from the north coast wear large colourful headdresses made from bird of paradise and other bird feathers sometimes decorated with shells when they have feast days and celebrations. They love to sing and dance to both traditional drums and stringband music. Parts of Rabaraba district have matrilineal inheritance and parts have some patrilineal inheritance. Their staple diet is cooking banana and taro, and they grow coffee in the inland mountains. |
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The Trobriand Islands lie 370 kilometres north of the provincial capital Alotau and are the most culturally interesting islands in the province. They are also very different, both culturally and geographically from the rest of the province.
The islands were named after Denis de Trobriand, an officer on D'Entrecasteaux's expedition. The largest of the group is Kiriwina where the airstrip and district headquarters (Losuia) are situated.
The Trobriands are low-lying coral islands, in complete contrast to the southern neighbours. There are some very good beaches and it is possible to stay in villages. The fishing is excellent and traditional fishing methods are also used. September to April the best months in which to fish.
There is almost no economic activity in the islands, apart from some sandfish (beche de mer) drying, lobster tails and trochus shell collecting. Trochus shells are exported to Europe where they are still used to make high quality buttons.
While Trobriands are famous for their culture, and a visit here can be a highlight of a trip to Milne Bay Province, be prepared for a completely different society to any other in the country. Visitors will find locals friendly, courteous and very curious.
People and CultureThe Polish anthropologist Malinowski made the Trobriands famous after WWI. At the start of the war, apparently, he was offered a choice of internment in Australia or banishment to the remote Trobriands. Sensibly he chose the latter and his studies of the islanders, their intricate trading rituals, their yam festivals and cults and their sexual practices, led to his classic series of books "Argonauts of the Western Pacific", "Coral Gardens and Their Magic" and "The Sexual Life of Savages". The Trobriand Islanders have strong Polynesian characteristics and have a social system that is dominated by the hereditary chieftains who continue to wield a tremendous amount of power and influence. The whole society is hierarchical, with strict distinctions between hereditary classes. It is a matrilineal society whereby inheritance is passed through the female side of a family. The Chief's sons belong to the wife's clan and he is superseded by one of his eldest sister's sons. On economic grounds, polygamy is still practiced by the chiefs. The soils of the Trobriands are very fertile and great care is lavished on the gardens, especially the yam gardens that have great practical and cultural importance. The villages are all laid out in circular pattern, which one can see most clearly from the air as one flies into Kiriwina. The village yam houses form an inner ring, surrounded by sleeping houses and the whole lot is encircled by a ring of fruit trees and vegetation. |
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Kiriwina Lodge and Butia Lodge can organise village stays where you are likely to meet friendly, interesting people and gain an insight into an extraordinary culture. To ensure an enjoyable stay make sure you establish the prices of everything in advance with your village host. Be prepared for basic facilities, and enjoy a fantastic experience.
The airstrip is located on the largest island, Kiriwina. Most of it is flat with a rim of low hills (uplifted coral reefs) which run down the eastern side. The central plain is intensely cultivated and it is hot and flat. South of the airstrip on the coast is the main town, Losuia, a fifteen minute away. North of the airport is Kaibola beach and south is Wawela village on an excellent curving sand beach edged by a deep protected 10km lagoon. An ideal spot for a picnic and snorkel. Still heading south, the road squeezes through thick jungle and passes through Sinaketa, a traditional kula ring trading village; and ends at beautiful Gilibwa village. Do not try to swim across the narrow passage to Vakuta Island as cross currents are dangerously strong.
The bay on the western side of Kiriwina is a huge expanse of shallow water -so shallow that the canoes are punted along with poles. Southern beaches are backed by beautiful rainforest, protected by the outer reefs and they all face the blue open Solomon Sea.
There are several islands west of Losuia that are worth visiting for their 'tropical paradise' features - include: Labi (extensive white sandy island - good for swimming), Nuratu near Kitava (stopover for Melanesian Discoverer and other cruise ships), Simsimla (way out) and Tuma (the spirit world of the dead ancestors).
There are very few facilities on Kiriwina or elsewhere in the Trobriands. Losuia, the only town and generally known as 'the station', has a wharf, a Primary School, the Kiriwina High School, churches, a police station, health centre, government administration offices, Local Level Government Council chamber and a few small trade stores.
The islands are linked to PNG's telecommunications network. There is only a Bank of South Pacific (BSP) Agency so you must bring all the cash you will need with you . If you plan to stay in the villages, make sure that you bring small denominations. Kiriwina Lodge and Butia Lodge can change some traveler's cheques for guests.
The yam-harvesting season (June, July, August) is a time of much celebration for the islanders. This is when most of the cultural events take place such as the Milamala (Yam) Festival and Mortuary Feasts or Rites (Sagari). Cultural Events The Yam Festival is solely organized by the villages themselves under the Tourism Kiriwina Association.
Some Local CustomsYams are far more than a staple food in the Trobriands. Two types of yams are grown, D. Alata (kuvi) and D. esculenta (tetu). These yams are a sign of prestige, an indicator of expertise and a tie between villages and clans. The quantity, quality and size of the yams grown are the matter of considerable importance. To be known as a 'good gardener is a mark of high ability prestige and respectability. Malinowski's weighty tomes on Trobriand Islanders led to Kiriwina being dubbed by the travel writers with the misleading title: 'The Islands of Love'. It is not surprising that such a label was applied by the inhibited pale-faced dimdims (Europeans) when they first met Trobriand women, with their free and easy manners, their good looks and short grass skirts but it led to the inaccurate notion that the Trobriands were some sort of sexual paradise. |
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Kula Ring extends around many island groups in the province.
A much more modern custom, but just as colourful, is the revitalised and unique game known as 'Trobriand Cricket' which was introduced by the missionaries. Trobriand Cricket developed a style of its own, quite unlike anything the Cricket world has ever seen. There are a handful of rules, no restrictions on team sizes, and colourful energetic dancing accompanies each game.
Polygamy is still practiced on the islands by the Tabalu sub clan and other minor sub clans.The chiefs consolidate their power base and influence by polygamy. No commoner is accorded that privilege and those who dare, face mortal consequences.
Some of the best known artifacts in the country are Trobriand carvings. Certain villages tend to specialise in certain styles and types of carvings. Most Trobriand carvings use ebony wood and are finely finished with inlays of mother of pearl shells.
You can purchase carvings at the airstrip, Kiriwina Lodge or Butia Lodge or in the villages.
There is variety of artifacts, ranging from bowls to walking sticks. The bowls -popular for use as salad or fruit bowls -often have decorative rims inlaid with pearl shells or flat surrounds carved like fish or turtles, with shells for eyes. Intricately carved ebony walking sticks, which are particularly well finished, are very popular. Carved statues are usually delicate and elongated with curiously convoluted figures. Stools are also made with solid circular flat seats with carved figures holding up the seats. Three-Iegged tables are also popular. Lime containers made from decorated gourds; and chains carved from a single piece of wood are other items you may see.
Ebony wood used for carving come from both the Trobriands and Woodlark islands.
Traditionally some of the best carving went into magnificent canoe prows, especially those used for the Kula Ring trading voyages. This same style of carving are also used on chiefs' yam house decorations. Besides carvings, you can get shells and bagi (shell 'money' used in the Kula Ring), although the latter is likely to be very expensive. The shell money is made on Rossel Island. The colourful Trobriand grass skirts are also used as currency and make interesting buys.
Old stone items including obsidian stone axe heads are restricted by law as they are important archaelolgical evidence.
Airlines PNG operates flights directly from Port Moresby to Losuia on Sundays and Tuesdays. Kiriwina Lodge acts as an agent for Airline PNG, bookings can be made there. Kiriwina Lodge and Butia Lodge run weekly workboats to Alotau and may take passengers. Boat fares to Alotau are about K70.00 one way. It takes up to two days (anchoring by an island for the night) and passes through the D'Entrecasteaux group of islands. You can probably arrange to be dropped at the island of your choice. Take your own food and water.
The island's PMVs run infrequently but cheaply. Pick up point is at the government station, Losuia and they normally travel to north and south coasts. Kiriwina Lodge and Butia Lodge operate courtesy airstrip transfers; and also have vehicles for hire. Bicycles are available at the Butia Lodge.
Caves used for swimming and fresh water are found at Tumwalau, Kalopa, Lupwaneta, Neguya, Bobu, Sikau, Kodawa, Kaulasi and Bwaga. At Moligilagi near the east coast, bring snorkel, mask and fins to explore the underwater caves.
Coral Megaliths can be found at Simsimula (Kwesimsimla) Kitava (Yanusa & Tausisigluma); and Temples ruins are near Kwebwaga village (Ilukwewaya & Duvalawosi). These exist as evidence of an ancient civilization and possible links to early Polynesian migration. You need a boat or dinghy to get to Simusimula and Kitava Islands. Legendary hero, Inuvelau and his genital remains are at Kwabula village. You might be asked to pay a small fee for photographs of the megaliths.
Picture-postcard Kaibola beach offers excellent swimming and snorkeling. On the beach you might see traditional canoes, fishing gear and you could chance a shark-calling ritual by Kaibola villagers. Pack your own snorkelling gear. At night, little glow worms outline the rocks along the shore.
Kalopa Cave near M'tawa village is a 90 minute walk from Kaibola. There are several deep limestone caves housing skeletal remains. Bones of the legendary Dokanikani (a gigantic cannibal with gigantic appetite) are said to be buried with those of his victims in one of the caves. Kaibola from Losuia covers nearly 30 km along the narrow coral road.
South of Losuia, Wawela village is on an excellent curving sand beach edging a cool deep protected lagoon. An ideal spot for a picnic and snorkel. A stone's throw away is the sickle-shaped Vakuta Island. Further south, the road squeezes through thick jungle and passes by Sinaketa, a traditional kula village.
There are several islands west of Losuia that are worth visiting for their 'tropical paradise' features - include: Labi (extensive white sandy island - good for swimming), Nuratu (stopover for Melanesian Discoverer), Simsimla (way out and untouched) and Tuma (the spirit world of the dead ancestors).
Fishing as a packaged activity for visitors is not fully utilized. Butia Lodge and Kiriwina Lodge staff can negotiate a village dinghy and put your fishing skills to test for the New Guinea Bass (at river estuaries) trevallies, barracudas, Yellow Fin Tuna and many other fish.
"This is the magic of Milne Bay - the charm and beauty of a peace loving people blessed in abundance with natural environment of near-pristine waters and varied landforms, unique flora and fauna, vibrant cultures, and living traditions!"
copyright 2006 Milne Bay Tourism Bureau
Funded by Milne Bay Provincial
Government
